Here, right now ; by the Indian Ocean

April 22nd 2008
Gokarna (Karnataka), INDIA

Today is Sun Day, again. I got out of my hammock a bit after the sunrise. Two chai (traditionnal indian tea) for breakfast ; I read one chapter of my book on tantra sex; and 2 chapters of my book on consciousness.

Gokarna is similar to Goa but without the music; the beach is so quiet and little crowded. Also the waves of the tide are much stronger than in Arambol (Goa). Gokarna beach is so huge and straight ; Arambol is more like a little bay so the waves are shanti shanti (peaceful). There is more cactus, but the climate feels the same. I am sharing a room with 2 germans (Andrew and Katherine), but none of us are using the bed. It is just a storage with a lock ; which we never bothered using...

Before the sun turned too intense, I left the books and sat in front of the waves for yoga. I then played my djembe for 2 hours.

***

In Goa, I used to go to the drum workshop every morning at 10:00 am (Indian time is never the same ; how can it be ? ). Russ, an 54 years old English rasta man was our teacher, and friend. We used to practise in small group and then experiment the drum circles at night. Goa is not India, it is like a miniature Europe inside India : mostly everybody than went to school speaks a nearly-perfect english.

For instance, Goa remained a Portuguese colony even 14 years after India's independance in 1947. Even now, the European vibe is pretty flagrant whether in the food, the clothing style, the architecture, or even in the local customs - many Goan are Christian, are celebrating Christmas more religiously than we do. This unique culture has attracted many Westerners after World War II, and during the Cold War. Many French, Dutch, Israeli, Russians settled here and along with the Indians started making full-moon parties, which became commercially known as rave parties in the 60's and 70's.. With the influence of house, dance, and techno music the djembe beats have evolved into Goa trance. A music that is meant to transport your mind into transe, just by listening to it meditatively. However, this Goa is dead. Since 2006 the Indian Government set a ban on loud music in open areas after 10pm... (with a few exceptions around new year celebration). Sometimes the parties last till midnight, 1am, or very rarely 5am. Sometimes the police comes at 10pm; sometimes never comes. We have to forget about Full Moon Goa Trance parties in Goa...

But never mind this little deception, Arambol has really good drumming almost everynight, and sometimes till really early in the morning. I was already thinking of buying drum before coming here, but when I heard 3 mind-blowing drummers playing together on the beach, I was stunned. With each drum having its own sound and producing a different melody, we could imagine the richness and the purity, the root of techno music. Back to the root of trance dancing...

***

Today is also full moon day. When the sun was at the highest in the sky, I was finally feeling hungry for breakfast and started to think about packing my stuff away. I had heard from three different sources that there is a rainbow gathering in a place called "Honey Beach". It's no where to be found in my Lonely Planet book or any indication post. No flyer, nothing really clear about it on the internet or anywhere. But last night, my third source stated :

"You first catch a bus for 7km north until Ganga Ole, where you take a ferry boat accross the river. And than walk in the jungle until there is a building in construction. And then no so far from there you should ear something going on or see some tee-pee."

As I never been to any rainbow gathering, I must go to check it out how it is like. So I packed the minimum of my stuff inside my drum and left the big backpack in the beach shack's kitchen. But all of this was after sharing another drum session with my japanese neighbour. I showed her the stuff I learned and she showed me an Indian rythm.

***

Indian people have such an unusual funky way of playing the african djembe. They use a wider range of tones and countless ways of producing the strokes. When many good Indians play together it produces a very enjoyable harmony, but very few of then know what they are doing - they can't explain it, or play it any slower. They just seemed to be hitting the drum in some random way and it sounds magically nice... or terribly chaotic.

***

So here I am. I am going to this rainbow right now - and hopefully there will be something going on. I might stay for a few days if I like it.

Stay tuned for the part II of the trekking, it is almost ready...